In the Village at Rancharrah, the tasty is taking the final turn toward home.
All food and drink spaces have been leased, Village officials said, and all such spaces have either opened for business or are under construction. Here’s an update (after a recent tour) on what’s launched and what’s ahead for your next visit to the Village.
Be seeing you.
Hinoki O is a shortened version of Hinoki Omakase, with “omakase” being a sushi meal the diner leaves up to the head chef to create. Hinoki O lies adjacent to its sister restaurant, Hinoki Poke, which just opened (see below).
Hinoki O will showcase nigiri like uni or fatty slices of toro, plus some warm dishes, but no sushi rolls, said owner Khai Duc Du, who also owns Hinoki Sushi and Haru restaurant, on Longley Lane. Hinoki O will offer two to three seatings nightly, Du said, at about $100 a person, reasonable for traditional omakase (so forget the sriracha and crystal shrimp).
You won’t have to be inside Village Well to hit the beer. Six taps behind what appears to be a service panel will extend from the exterior wall to take care of imbibers outside. Inside, a giant tap array will dispense beers by the ounce. Load money onto a special card, insert in the dispenser and — hey! — you’ve got brew.
Village Well will have cocktails and big-screen TVs, too. “It felt like we needed a beer presence in the Village,” said Kyle McDermaid, who owns the bar with Cory Hunt, an executive with Tolles, developer of the Village. McDermaid also owns Hunstman Tavern in Sparks. The business partners said they hoped to launch Village Well by mid-December.
As I recently reported, construction is well underway at Centro South, sibling of Centro Midtown, with several food and office areas already constructed. Supply chain disruptions are delaying other components. Chef-owner Alberto Gazzola told me he might eventually offer caviar service, though nothing is official.
“I love caviar,” he said. Well yes, Alberto, don’t we all? Caviar would fit nicely with the more upscale menu Gazzola is planning for Centro South.
Armando & Sons Butcher Shop
Village officials said Armando & Sons, the final food and drink lease signed, is a project from Sierra Meat & Seafood, a longtime local distributor. The Flocchini family owns Sierra Meat, whose origins date to 1934, when their grandfather, Armando Flocchini Sr., purchased a meat company for which he had been working. Stay tuned for more.
Dorinda’s Chocolates and Rolled Mountain Creamery share a storefront in the Village; the original shops are neighbors on Riverside Drive. Chocolate doyenne Dorinda Vance founded her eponymous company; son Dustin is COO and VP. Brother Dillon started Rolled Mountain, inspired by rolled ice cream he’d tried in Asia. Indulgence is a family affair.
At the back of the shop, strips of housemade ice cream (including a non-dairy version) are rolled up like scrolls, then bedazzled with various toppings. Up front during the holidays, Dorinda’s is offering s’mores kits with homemade ingredients ($8), hand-painted chocolate Santas ($25), and Dutch hot chocolate that unfolds like thick rich velvet ($6).
Many things are striking at Grafted Whiskey & Wine Bar, but let’s start with illumination. Like crystal chandeliers inside steel hoods. Dewdrop bulbs enrobed in clear sheaths. A cluster of bells pealing with light. Glowing orbs depending from a scalloped ceiling in the dining room.
In the main bar, arched ecclesiastical windows soar toward a ceiling 32 feet at its apex. “I found a lot of inspiration from old cathedrals,” said Jade Bogan, owner of Grafted. The singular fixtures and architecture of Grafted provide the setting for wines, 150+ whiskeys, and a menu of salads, flatbreads, and shareables like burrata, hummus or charcuterie.
Hinoki Poke debuted Nov. 27 next door to its eventual partner restaurant, Hinoki O (see above). Owner Khai Duc Du said he had been waiting on the sneeze guard to arrive. Hinoki Poke has a small table and a shallow counter for dining in, but the restaurant is “mostly grab and go” poke bowls, Du said.
Hinoki Poke is still waiting on some items, so the next month is a soft opening. The “soft” menu features bowls built from rice or greens; seafood or tofu; 10 sauces like sesame shoyu or habanero mayo; mix-ins like green onions or tobiko; and toppings like ginger, edamame or seaweed salad.
Owner Chuy Gutierrez gave me an exclusive peek in September just before his third Mari Chuy’s opened. Now, tequila lockers are in (at $1,000 each), pork crowned by pineapple is being carved from the spit for tacos al pastor, the Pancho Villa mural is complete, beans are burbling in the pot and an image of the tequila goddess watches over the room.
A signboard announces 40 or so featured tequilas, from commercial to craft (tequila tastings have begun, too). Another board proclaims more than a dozen house specials, including molcajetes, elote grilled corn dusted with cotija, shrimp or tuna ceviche, chile verde and rib-eye a la plancha (grilled). Mari Chuy’s Tequileria will serve a New Year’s Eve menu.
In late June 2021, Perenn Bakery became the first food and drink business to open in the Village.
Unlike its snug Midtown counterpart, this Perenn is an all-day restaurant featuring beverages (including beer and wine), breads, pastries, elevated meditations on breakfast like a guanciale soft-scrambled egg, plus salads, bowls, toasts, and sandwiches like a croque madame (sautéed mushrooms makes it “forestier”) that folks rave about.
The menu is served in a bright airy neo-farm dining room set with flower arrangements, or on the terrace with a pergola. If the whole thing seems social media ready, it is, but what’s more important is that Perenn offers some of the best food of its kind in the region. Want a private Perenn? Book Perenn After Hours with custom menus and wines.
Johnathan L. Wright is the food and drink editor for Reno News & Review. Follow him on Twitter at @ItsJLW or on Facebook personally or at @FoodNevada. Sign up here for the Reno News & Review free weekly newsletter highlighting our most recent stories.